Chemical vs. physical sunscreen- which one is better?

There are a million options when looking at sunscreens. Different formulations, tons of brands, and lots of hype. Most people just grab something convenient that seems to resonate with their beliefs, what they've read online or heard from friends, while a lot of people just grab whatever is on sale at the drugstore. 

No matter which one of these best describes you, I'm willing to bet you still have questions regarding which SPF will work best for you, what ingredients to look for, and the basic differences between mineral and chemical sunscreen. So let's start there...

What is mineral sunscreen?

Mineral (or physical) sunscreens contain active mineral ingredients, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, which mainly work by sitting on top of the skin, deflecting and scattering damaging UVA rays away from the skin. They're more commonly referred to as physical blockers.

Pros-

• Protects against both UVA and UVB rays and is naturally broad spectrum

• Instantly protects from the sun immediately after it’s applied, no wait needed

• Lasts longer when in direct UV light but NOT when doing physical activities, getting wet or sweating)

• Better for sensitive skin because it's less likely to cause a stinging irritation on the skin.

• Heat-activated skin (like those with rosacea and redness) respond better since the heat and energy given off by the sun is deflected away from the skin

• Ideal for blemish-prone skin types since it's more likely to be less pore-clogging

• Longer shelf life

Cons-

• Can rub off, sweat off and rinse off easily, therefore requiring more frequent reapplication

• Some formulas can leave a chalky finish on the skin, not always ideal for darker skin types

• Certain chalky and opaque formulas can be hard to use under makeup

• Tend to be thicker, requiring more effort to absorb

• Can tend to cause white drips to show on the skin when sweating

• Can be less protective if not applied generously and accurately since UV light can penetrate through its molecules

What is chemical sunscreen? 

Chemical sunscreens contain organic (carbon-based) compounds, such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate and avobenzone, which create a chemical reaction and work by changing UV rays into heat, then releasing that heat from the skin. They are often referred to as chemical or organic absorbers.

Pros-

• Tends to be thinner and, therefore, spreads more easily on the skin, making it more wearable for daily use

• Less is needed to protect the skin because there is no risk of no spaces between the sunscreen molecules after application

• Formula is easier to add additional treatment ingredients, such as peptides and enzymes, which offer other skin benefits

Cons-

• Can possibly cause an increase in existing brown spots and discoloration due to a higher internal skin temperature (Over-heated skin can make brown spots worse.)

• Requires 10 minutes after application to create a protective barrier over the skin

• Increased chance of irritation and stinging (especially for those who have dry skin with a damaged moisture barrier) due to the multiple ingredients combined in order to achieve broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection

• The higher the SPF (such as formulas of SPF 50 or greater), the higher the risk of irritation for sensitive skin types

• The protection it offers has a limited lifespan in direct UV light, so reapplication must be more frequent

• Increased chance of redness for rosacea-prone skin types because it changes UV rays into heat which can exacerbate flushing

• The chemical ingredients oxybenzone and oxtinoxate have been banned in Hawaii for posing a risk of degrading coral reef when worn while swimming in the ocean. (This applies to water-resistant beach sunscreens only and not daily use sunscreens or makeup with sunscreen.) Pro tip: When at the beach, wear long-sleeve UV protecting swimwear such as a rash guard to lessen sunscreen getting into ocean waters.

• Can be pore-clogging, depending on the formula,

• Can cause stinging if it drips into the eyes from sweat

So, which one is the best choice?

The answer is, it depends. If you have sensitive skin, easily overheated skin, hyperpigmentation, or freckle easily, stick with mineral sunscreens. If you have pretty normal skin that's not easily irritated, or if you're not swimming in the ocean, you could opt for a chemical sunscreen.  If your main concern is negative impacts on the environment, you can't go wrong with the mineral option.

My personal choice is from a brand that's made locally in Issaquah, WA called Hydropeptide. We carry both the non-tinted SPF 50 and tinted SPF 30 varieties. They contain antioxidants and hyaluronic acid, which allow for better hydration and helps the product melt easily onto the skin without the thick or chalky finish. I personally vetted this brand on my skin during my monthlong trip to Hawaii in February/ March this year, and I absolutely LOVE it. I can also personally recommend LaRoche Posay Anthelios line which comes in a mineral and chemical version, both face and body specific formulas, and both are lovely and melt beautifully into the skin. 

Of course you want to be sure to reapply frequently during times of sun exposure, especially after swimming or sweating.  About every 2 hours is usually a good rule of thumb, but if you're traveling closer to the equator you'll want to reapply every 50-60 minutes. 

Introducing Hydropeptide, our new mineral sunscreen locally made in Issaquah, WA.

With a light texture and silky feel, these sunscreens are the most delicate formulation I’ve ever tried.

I took the non-tinted version with me on a monthlong trip to Hawaii along with 5 other brands, and this was the only one that made the grade. It’s so fresh and hydrating that it was completely functional as a moisturizer, and it felt light enough to layer throughout the day. No bad beach days!

Solar Defense Non-tinted

Broad Spectrum SPF 30 | Titanium Dioxide + Zinc Oxide | Acai + Green Tea | Aloe + Hyaluronic Acid

This advanced sunscreen protects from UVA, UVB and Infrared damage with a combination of physical blockers, weightless hydration and a smooth, scent-free finish.*

• Helps to protect against free radical damage that lead to fine lines and wrinkles 

• Replenishes hydration without feeling heavy

• Helps promote a clear complexion

• Matte, sheer finish for a natural look

$60

Solar Defense Tinted

Broad Spectrum SPF 30 | Titanium Dioxide + Zinc Oxide | Acai + Green Tea | Aloe + Hyaluronic Acid

This color-adjusting sunscreen offers flawless coverage and a luminous finish with UVA, UVB and Infrared protection. (Same formula you love, we've just updated the packaging!)*

• Helps to protect against free radical damage that leads to fine lines and wrinkles 

• Replenishes hydration without feeling heavy

• Camouflages minor imperfections while promoting a clear complexion

• Matte, tinted finish for a luminous glow

$60